Sunday, February 22, 2009

Roast Chicken is the Story

Roast chicken has, over the last several years, become one of my favorite foods. I'm not sure if it's because I've been doing a lot more reading about food -- seems like EVERYONE has something to say about roast chicken and omelettes -- or if I'm just appreciating simpler preparations. Regardless, I frequently find myself searching for an excuse to roast a chicken.

When I was younger, everyday I would ask "what's for dinner?". A couple of meals excited me, a couple disgusted me, but most responses just did nothing for me. Put roast chicken in the third category. My mom would buy big, old Purdue hens. These chickens suffer from the turkey paradox: they're just too big for an even-cooking roast. It's virtually impossible to have perfectly cooked breasts AND thighs. Also, I think Purdue chicken smells. I used to think all chicken, when raw, just kind of stank, but after going through several Murray's and Bell & Evans birds, I know that good quality, fresh chicken, much like fresh seafood, should have no smell at all. It also shouldn't be slimy and ooze its moisture just coming to room temperature. It was not roast chicken that I didn't like, but a certain brand of chicken. Sorry Purdue, I am not a fan.

In my market, Bell & Evans and Murray's chickens never go on sale, but I have found that they cost about the same as Purdue birds when those birds are not on sale. Still, I can get a 3-4 lb quality chicken for about $8-$10 and feed a family of four. Add in some potatoes and vegetables and I'm still well under $20 for the meal. Therefore, when it's up to me, I buy Murray's or Bell & Evans (Murray's slightly preferred -- not sure why!).

I've also recently subscribed to Ina Garten's roast chicken breast technique for all kinds of chicken preparations. The other day, I roasted several bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts for chicken chili and they were great: juicy and tender. I roasted the pieces for 40 minutes at 450F (not convection) with just a little oil, salt, and pepper. A few days later, I roasted some split breasts for my mom for soup -- much better than boiled chicken. Then, I roasted some again for a pasta dish. The chicken turns out with great texture and flavor, although you do lose an opportunity to create flavor via browning. I think that it's worth it anyway.

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